Pays Dogon

Eventually, we made it to Dogon country! We got a guide at a hotel in Bandiagara, the place where most people set out from. Ibrahim (aka 'Pygmy') has one of the driest senses of humour I've ever encountered, and that is exceptionally rare to find in Africa. Like, crazy rare. So, that was enjoyable, and he did his job well, but I think he was super-tired of showing tourists around, frankly. Fair enough! He gave me a turban and I have him a necklace I made, so we're bff now.

We did 4 days and 3 nights, about 40 km of trekking along the escarpment- mum even climbed it (not that she had a choice)! Dogon country was amazing- the landscapes, architecture...but the culture was a bit of a low point for me. I know I'm not supposed to say that, but hear me out! Maybe it's just the way Ibrahim explained things, but he kept describing this really misogynist culture that revolves around jealousy and deceit. He told us all these stories about how people are selected for human sacrifice (tricked into it!), how disgusting and impure women are in Dogon culture (we bleed, so are obviously pure evil and should be treated as such), and the many different ways people can get ostracized from and/or enslaved in Dogon society. All this, while every. single. fucking. person. we met along the way asked us for a 'cadeau'. Hundreds and hundreds of people every single day came up to us, kids, grown ups, elders, men, women, other, with their palms outstretched saying "madame, cadeau!" "donne moi ton bouteille!" "donne moi un bonbon!", and literally grabbaing at our stuff- I had to smack an old lady's hand who was trying to steal my water bottle! That aspect was geniunely upsetting. Not because I can't handle being asked for things, but because I am very ashamed of everyone, self included, who has been part of the process by which an entire culture has integrated demanding inconsequential gifts from visitors into their daily lives. I get it, but I don't like it.

This gentleman describes it well: http://www.paulstravelblog.com/2009/01/monsieur-cadeau.html.

But back to the Dogon landscapes...wow. Truly some of the most amazing I've ever seen.